Men's suit step by step

[fuddyduddydude]

Okay, I've started making another men's suit, and I'm taking pics of this one as I go. The pattern is a vogue V2836, and I've cut the pattern to my size, which is a 44 regular. I've found that some patterns don't come out to the size that they should, but this one is pretty good if you measure carefully. Okay, first step is to cut out the fabric. There's almost fifty pieces of fabric to be cut so take your time and do it carefully, observing the grainline.http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00155.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00155.jpg)

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00157.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00157.jpg)The fabric is a medium - light weight wool blend.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/DSC00167.jpgThe pattern indicates making the jacket first, but I like to do the pants first. That gives me some familiarity with the particular fabric I'm using so I'm more confident by the time I start the jacket. Step one - sew a dart in the back of the pants and press it. I use a tailor's marker to mark where everything goes. When finished, steam removes the marks very well.
http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00167.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00167.jpg)Next step, mark back pocket location.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00170.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00170.jpg)Here's the back of the pants with the pocket location marked.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00168.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00168.jpg)Make the back pocket welt by folding the fabric and stitching along the stitching line. There will be four of these, two for each pocket.
http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00169.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00169.jpg)Then you trim about a quarter inch from the stitching.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00175.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00175.jpg)Baste them to the outside of the pants, stopping at marks, with raw edges towards each other. (You'll turn them inside later)

[fuddyduddydude]

Okay that's all the pics I'm posting tonight. If you embark on this project, just read the pattern instructions thoroughly, and as I make this particular suit I'll share some of the tricks I use to get nice results.

[Miss_Gagarin]

now you're going for a good challenge! Men's suit are like the everest of sewing to me...

Can't wait to see more. :)

[Animama]

Yowza! Impressive! I took a tailoring class at a local fabric shop several years ago. The linen jacket is still unfinished. All I needed to do was hand sew the lining hems. I detest hand-sewing.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00176.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00176.jpg)Back pocket is pinned and stitched to the outside of the pants. There is a strip of pants fabric stitched to this pocket fabric so that when everything is turned, the nicer pants fabric is visible through the pocket opening, instead of the white cotton pocket fabric.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00177.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00177.jpg)Stitch the pocket along the lines indicated on the pattern. You're stitching through the pocket, the welts, and the pants fabric, on the same stitching lines where you basted the welts to the back of the pants. then you cut through everything right between the stitching lines, trimming diagonally at the ends. Be sure to clip diagonally all the way to the stitching, or else you'll have a big ugly crinkle when you turn the pocket to the inside.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00178.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00178.jpg) Turn the pocket to the inside, pulling the loose ends of the welts through. ( The welts are longer than the pocket openings, so you pull the ends through to the inside. ) The welts, when turned to the inside, flip around so that the finished edges are now facing each other. Press everything very carefully to get the welts to lay flat and the pocket opening to lay flat. If you don't press things as you go, it will be poofy instead of smooth. After turning the pocket and pressing, I like to put a zig-zag stitch at the ends of the pockets, stitching through the little triangular pieces formed when you made the diagonal cuts, and through the loose welt ends that are turned to the inside. The zig-zag keeps everything in its place. After turning the pocket to the inside, you stitch around the edges of the pocket with the pocket inside out ( keeping the pants fabric free of course ) , trim excess, turn it right side out, press it, and stitch it again and it's finished.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00158.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00158.jpg)
Here's my humble sewing area. I made the cabinets several years ago, and we had the computer, printer, etc. there. Now we have a laptop and a wireless printer, so I seized this area and claimed it as mine! It's a little spot in our upstairs, out of the way of everything else, so if I leave a little clutter while working on something, it's no problem.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00184.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00184.jpg)Okay, time to move on to the front of the pants. First, mark the layout for the pleats, then fold and stitch on the wrong side of the fabric.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00181.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00181.jpg)Here's how it looks after stitching. You fold the pleats over towards the center ( on the back side ) and press them flat. Resist the urge to press the pleats further than the stitching at this point, or you'll regret it later when you are finished with the pants and press them. If you wait, when you press the finished pants you can make the front crease line up with the inner pleat for a neat finish.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00183.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00183.jpg)Here's how it looks on the front after pressing the pleats flat.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00182.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00182.jpg)Baste across the top to hold everything in place for now.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00185.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00185.jpg)You've got four pocket facings for the front pockets, two for each side, a front and a back. Press the edges and stitch them to the inside of the pocket along their marks.

[fuddyduddydude]

That's all for now, I've done more but I'll have to post it later.

[slodki]

rather impressive thus far

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00186.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00186.jpg)Attach the pocket facings to the pockets, then stitch them onto the pants front, right sides together. You'll turn them to the inside next.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00187.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00187.jpg)When you stitch the pocket to the pants front, you then clip across the two pieces just beneath the stitching, so that when you turn it, a little "tab" sticks out. This tab will be swallowed up by the side seam later and will position the pocket opening in the right place.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00188.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00188.jpg)Fold the pocket along foldline, with facings out, and stitch pocket along stitching line. Trim to 1/4 inch then turn it so the facings are on the inside.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00189.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00189.jpg)After you turn it, you press it and stitch it again. This pocket has been double-stitched and ain't goin nowhere. You will feel free to put car keys, kitchen utensils, and small pets in these pockets without fear of ripping.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00191.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00191.jpg)Line up the pocket so that the marking on the facing matches the pocket opening edge. Then stitch, starting at the top, down to the mark and turn, stitching to the edge. It looks crude here because of the chalk marking, but this pocket opening is edge stitched and very finished looking after it's pressed.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00190.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00190.jpg)Press. I need a better camera, these are just my cell phone pics. At this point, you are finished installing the pockets to the pants fronts. The next step will be to join the two pants fronts at the crotch and install the zipper. After the zipper is put in, the progress goes quickly and you feel like you're getting somewhere, then you have to start on the waistbands, which is a little tedious and slow. Every time I do this, I go back and forth between feeling like I'm making great progress and feeling like WHEN WILL I EVER FINISH.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00192.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00192.jpg)With right sides together, stitch between marks at bottom of crotch. This is the area below where the zipper will go.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00193.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00193.jpg)Fold down seam allowance on right pants front and press. This is where the zipper will go.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00195.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00195.jpg)Stitch zipper to right pants front, keeping right fly free.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00194.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00194.jpg)Fold fly over, press, and baste across the top.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00196.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00196.jpg)Stitch the two layers of the left fly together. The pattern calls for one piece of suit fabric and one piece of cotton, but I usually just make both pieces out of the suit fabric. After stitching the two pieces together along one side, you clip it and turn it inside out.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00197.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00197.jpg)This is what it looks like after you've stitched it, clipped it, turned it inside out and pressed it.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00198.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00198.jpg)Attach the left fly to the outside of the left front of the pants. After attaching it, you fold all the layers of seam allowance to the back of the fly and stitch it really close to the seam allowance, then fold it at the seam and press it. This way, there will not be visible stitching on the front of the pants at the zipper opening. There will be stitching about an inch away from the opening, that curves at the bottom end of the zipper opening, but that happens later.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00199.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00199.jpg)Overlap left side over right side and pin. If you don't overlap it enough, the pants will look like the zipper is open when you're all finished, so pin very carefully here. "Measure twice and stitch once" -- or "Don't be afraid to rip the stitching out if it doesn't look right - and do it again." Then stitch zipper to the left fly. I like to baste it, unpin everything and see if it looks right, then stitch it if it's good. If it's not, I rip out the basting and start over.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00200.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00200.jpg)Whew! The zipper is installed. This is the front with the zipper closed. There will be a waistband attached at the top later, and once the backs are attached, the crotch will look better. At this point, it will get easier now for a while. When you are at this point of the project, you will start thinking that those suits you saw in the store weren't really that expensive after all. But they don't come with the satisfaction of a hand-made garment so don't give up!

[fuddyduddydude]

Done for now. The next step will be to attach the pants fronts to the pants backs. After that, the waistband, the belt loops ( carriers, according to the pattern ) and the buttons, button holes, and hem. Then it's on to the jacket!

[fuddyduddydude]

... just got an e-mail that voguepatterns.com is having a two day sale, so everything is like six bucks today and tomorrow.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00201.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00201.jpg)Stitch the pants front to the pants back. At the pocket, there will be fabric extending beyond the seam allowance, which will be turned down and stitched next.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00202.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00202.jpg)This is the side seam after stitching. Fold the extra pocket material over the seam allowance and stitch it a quarter inch from the existing seam.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00203.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00203.jpg)Like this! Then clip the front seam allowance just below the pocket, and press the seam allowance flat from the bottom to the pocket, and from the pocket up press it towards the back.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00204.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00204.jpg)This is the way it will look on the outside. It's a good idea to look at it right after stitching, to be sure nothing needs to be adjusted. Notice how the bottom of the pocket opening just disappears into the seam for a crisp look. Repeat the steps for the other side.

[fuddyduddydude]

At this point, don't worry about the pleats being poofy, or whether the top of the pants front is exactly lined up with the top of the pants back. The waistband will give you the opportunity to make everything come out right.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00205.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00205.jpg)With right sides together, stitch the inseam from the bottom to the top. Then press seam flat. Repeat for the other leg.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00206.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00206.jpg)This part is confusing at first. You turn one pants leg right side out and the other inside out and put one inside the other. This exposes the crotch area so that it can be pinned and stitched between marks. The back of the pants is left alone at this point, you will stitch that up after adding the waistbands. That's all for now, more later.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00208.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00208.jpg)Iron fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the right waistband. The pattern calls for sew-in interfacing, but I use the iron-in.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00211.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00211.jpg)After you stitch the inside of the waistband pieces together, stitch them to the waistband. The illustration in the pattern is hard for me to follow here, so I've written little notes to myself -- "finished sides together, single layer here, double layer there (with arrows and such ) " If you visualize how it will fold after stitching, it starts to make sense.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00212.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00212.jpg)This is how the right waistband should look prior to attaching to the pants.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00213.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00213.jpg)Stitch right waistband to the right side of the pants, right sides together. The white fabric will be folded to the inside after attaching the facing. The stitching in this step will capture the top edge of the zipper, so that it terminates inside a seam, making a nice, smooth finish.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00215.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00215.jpg)Stitch right side facing to pants, right sides together. Then trim seam allowance so it can be turned inside out and pressed.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00216.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00216.jpg)This is how it looks after everything is turned right side out and pressed. Repeat the same steps for the left waistband.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00218.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00218.jpg)The left side is a little trickier because it has this little tab that will get a buttonhole in a later step. I find it helpful to stitch about an eight of an inch outside the seam allowance when a piece that has to be turned lines up with a piece that is already turned. This way when you turn it, the seams line up. This isn't a huge issue on the pants, but when you get to the jacket, and especially the lapel, it makes a difference.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00219.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00219.jpg)Okay, when I looked at this picture, it scared me and I had to go back and look at the pants. The pants are good, the picture just makes it look like it's crooked. I guess it's because I was holding the right and left sides spread apart to get details in the picture. Anyway, this is the last of the difficult stuff for the pants. The inside facings have to be stitched in place by hand, and then it's on to the back seam, the belt loops and the hem. And then the jacket!

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00217.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00217.jpg)It's a good idea to stop and pet your cat at this point if you have one. I was asked how you get the fabric of each piece to line up with each other, and here's my method: On the pattern, there's a line on each pattern piece indicating grainline orientation. I line up that line with something in the fabric, like "the red stripe" or "the thicker white line" or whatever. Then, it always just works out. If you're working with plaid or a fabric with a pattern perpendicular to the grainline, just line up the same repeating place in the fabric with the tabs on the pattern.

[fuddyduddydude]

So that's all I've done so far. It's been hectic at work so I haven't been able to spend as much time on this suit as I'd like. Possibly I can finish the pants tomorrow. At any rate, I hope some of you find this thread interesting. I've been wanting to document how this goes together anyway, so I'm enjoying it. Meanwhile, it's almost midnight and it has begun snowing outside! I live about a hundred miles south of Memphis, and it's been awhile since we've had a decent snow.

[dreaminginlilies]

You are amazing!

[fuddyduddydude]

YAY SOMEONE RESPONDED!!!
I've finished the seam in the seat of the pants and started on the belt loops, I'll post the pics soon as I can. I'll prolly finish the pants tonight or tomorrow night. Thanks for watching!!

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00222.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00222.jpg)With right sides together, baste the seat of the pants seam together, try it on for fit. Stitch seam, then stitch again a quarter inch inside seam allowance for extra strength. ( we don't want any ripped pants so stitch it strong! )

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00223.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00223.jpg)Turn waistband to the inside all the way around and press. The cotton inner waistband extends below this seam, so hold everything in place and pin it, then stitch in the same stitching line to hold the inner waistband in place.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00224.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00224.jpg)Stitch beltloop fabric. This is one long piece that is stitched, then trimmed close to stitching, then pressed so that stitching is flat.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00225.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00225.jpg)This is the coolest tool ever!! You stick it inside the beltloop and hook it, then turn the beltloop right side out.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00226.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00226.jpg)Clip beltloops to the right length, stitch them at lower seam, clip them, and turn them up and stitch top.

[Miss_Gagarin]

this is really a long time project. but on the other end, it will have a very polished look at the time. keep going, at least I am following!

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00230.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00230.jpg)Put buttonholes in place, then sew buttons in.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00231.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00231.jpg)Put hem in. I turn in a 5/8 seam allowance at the bottom ( so it won't ravel ) and stitch it up with a long stitch ( to keep it from bunching ) and turn it to the outside for 1 1/2" cuffs. You can also make it without cuffs by blindstitching. I like cuffs though.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00235.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00235.jpg)Press everything, clip loose threads, and it's done!!

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00232.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00232.jpg)Another pic. I really need a better camera.

I'll start on the jacket soon, and post the progress as I go. The jacket is more fun - to me anyway. When I'm done, I'm really going to try to get some higher quality pictures of the finished product.

[fuddyduddydude]

this is really a long time project. but on the other end, it will have a very polished look at the time. keep going, at least I am following!
Yes it is slow going - but it's an hour here, an hour there, so it's not so bad. I think sometimes I'm crazy to do this, but it's fun and relaxing. It's too cold out to ride my motorcycle, and I hate to waste time watching TV, so this way I feel like I'm accomplishing something. Thanks for following along, I hope you like.

[Sewing Joe]

I'm really interested in this. One of my goals (probably unachievable) is to make a pair of pants. The fly always causes me to crash and burn.

Joe

[fuddyduddydude]

I'm really interested in this. One of my goals (probably unachievable) is to make a pair of pants. The fly always causes me to crash and burn.

Joe

It's not just you Joe, pants are tough to make. My first suit project looked like formal pajamas - it was awful. I think it took me three suit attempts before I really understood each step. The pattern and instructions are written for people who already know how to sew, so it took lots of patience. In my opinion, the pants are harder to make than the jacket, in large part due to the fly and the pockets. I have found it helpful to machine baste some parts and check the fit or alignment before the fine stitching. The large basting stitches are easier to rip out if need be. So when I'm putting in the zipper and the left and right fly, I baste everything and then inspect it. If I didn't do that, I'm sure I would wind up throwing it in the trash instead of fixing it and trying again when it's not right. Thanks for watching - I'll be starting on the jacket soon. There are a few tough parts on it too, but fewer pieces of fabric and I think it goes together a little more quickly.

[fuddyduddydude]

So I was going to sew this weekend, but I wound up doing lots of yardwork, pruning crepe myrtle trees, and removing some formica from a kitchen counter top that I am re-doing. Plus I was on call at work and had to make THREE deliveries to the hospital on Saturday - so I ran out of time. ( I just re-read that and I feel the need to clarify - I didn't deliver babies at the hospital, I delivered equipment to the hospital - not a doctor ) I'll start the jacket soon tho.

[ladyjanewriter]

I just saw this now. (Haven't been on the boards as much - lost my job in November and am kicking my job search into gear.)

Thank you SO much for doing this! Welt pockets seem 100% less scary now! (And I've never even made pants!)

YOU. RULE.

Oh, and bonus points for following the "There must be a cat in every tutorial" rule.

A similar rule is the "There must be a jumpy doggie, or a curious kitty, in the finished project's show-off photo" rule.

[ItsJustJuwah]

You've obviously done this before, ain't cha hun?

[fuddyduddydude]

I just saw this now. (Haven't been on the boards as much - lost my job in November and am kicking my job search into gear.)

Thank you SO much for doing this! Welt pockets seem 100% less scary now! (And I've never even made pants!)

YOU. RULE.

Oh, and bonus points for following the "There must be a cat in every tutorial" rule.

A similar rule is the "There must be a jumpy doggie, or a curious kitty, in the finished project's show-off photo" rule.

I didn't even know about the cat rule!! ( I guess it's just an obvious thing! ) And the welts are not so hard once you get used to them. The first ones I did looked awful because I followed the instructions oh so carefully without understanding what I was doing. I recommend pinning things, marking them, and then visualizing what the next few steps are so you see where the instructions are taking you. This helps me to understand where the piece is going, and can lead to some helpful changes, like needing to mark something differently, or pin more closely, etc.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00237.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00237.jpg)On to the jacket!! First, mark the pocket lines on the front. Then cut a slit betweeen marks, cutting diagonally to the corners. This is only about two-thirds of the pocket opening, the other third will be on the front side piece, so that there is a seam going directly through the pocket opening. The front - to - front side seam looks off here, because the dart isn't there yet. After you put the dart in, that seam is a straight line.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00238.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00238.jpg)On wrong side of fabric, mark the lines for the dart. Fold fabric to the wrong side ( right sides facing each other ) and stitch dart in place.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00239.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00239.jpg)Stitch dart in place. I start at the big end ( by pocket opening ) and go to the point, at the top. This way, I can terminate the stitching at the point, and leave six inches or so of thread loose. Then I tie the thread off with a quadruple knot or so. When pressed, the dart's point will flow smoothly into the area of flat fabric above it. Press the dart toward the center, as viewed from the back.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00240.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00240.jpg)Mark the side front for the pocket opening. Then cut between lines, clipping diagonally to corners.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00241.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00241.jpg)With right sides together, stitch front to front side, lining up marks and pocket openings. Of course, stop at pocket openings, so that you are stitching the area above the pocket and the area below the pocket opening. ***NOTE*** This picture makes it look like the seam is really wavy and wobbly, when in fact it is straight. I was trying to get my cellphone camera to take a decent pic with the lighting available, and took the pic from a goofy angle. I've got a big fluorescent movable light and the sewing machine light, which is plenty of light to sew by, but it isn't the best lighting for pictures.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00242.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00242.jpg)Press seam flat so that the front of the jacket is smooth. I find it helpful to press it on the back side to get the seam allowances to lay down, then flip it over and press it again on the front. Bonus! In this pic you can see through the banister down to the den, where my kids are watching American Idol or something equally ignant while I'm sewing.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00243.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00243.jpg)The front of the jacket, pressed and waiting for pocket construction! Of course, repeat these steps for the other side of the jacket. That's where I'll stop tonight - I don't like to sew too late in the evening for fear that the quality will mirror my level of awareness. Next will be the pocket welts, the pocket, and the flap. The pattern calls for only one welt, below the pocket opening, but we'll be putting a top and a bottom welt, because it looks better. It's not really any harder, and the pocket flap looks cooler emerging from a welt than just from the bare front.

[ItsJustJuwah]

Lookin' good!

[fuddyduddydude]

I can't stress enough the importance of using good material. If you're shopping for suit fabric, take a suit with you and compare. It's so easy to buy fabric that looks great on the table but looks awful when made into a suit. If I'm buying fabric online, I look for worsted wool or wool blends that are light to medium weight, 10 oz to 12 oz. Tighter weaves make for crisper lines, and big clunky fabric like tweeds and such require more attention at seams to prevent ravelling. Plus, really pretty fabric draws the eye to the fabric itself, as evidenced by a visit to the department store, where you can find suits that look great until you really look at their construction and will find occasional examples of shoddy stitching, misalignment and poor symmetry. ( Most department store suits are cranked out by machine - watch the "How it's made" episode if you can, it's fascinating )

I was watching an old Sherlock Holmes movie with my family and we really liked the big, thick, blocky fabric that their coats and pants were made from. But while that looks great in turn-of-the century london, it would be a bit uncomfortable in the Mississippi Delta summertime.

Also, if you decide to make a suit and haven't made one before, I recommend making something expendable, with inexpensive fabric like a medium weight cotton. Wool and wool blends are too pricey to mess up, and if you are like me, the first couple of projects are going to be "learning experiences" and not really fit to wear.

[fuddyduddydude]

I guess I'm really addicted to this hobby -- I just bought five more yards of suit fabric on ebay. This time it's 100% wool, light weight in a nice medium solid pretty brown. I don't have any solid brown suits, so this will be new for me. I got it for like 21 dollars plus ten bucks or so shipping.

[ItsJustJuwah]

You probably have less money invested (not counting your time) in one custom made suit than what I would have charged to tailor an off the rack suit to fit you... BRAVO frugal fuddyduddydude!

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00244.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00244.jpg)At this point, I stray from the printed instructions of the pattern, because I like a top and bottom welt on the jacket pocket. So here I make four welts instead of two. Baste the welts, rough sides facing each other, to the front of the jacket. These welts are bigger than the pants welts, and when they are turned, they will overlap a little, but the top ones will have a pocket flap under it so it's okay, even good for them to overlap a little.

[The Angry Hippie]

I guess I'm really addicted to this hobby -- I just bought five more yards of suit fabric on ebay. This time it's 100% wool, light weight in a nice medium solid pretty brown. I don't have any solid brown suits, so this will be new for me. I got it for like 21 dollars plus ten bucks or so shipping.
thats a deal!

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00245.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00245.jpg)Following marks on pattern, stitch pocket lining to pocket. This lining is just a decorative touch so that if you stick your hand in your pocket, what shows is the satiny lining instead of plain cotton.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00246.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00246.jpg)Again following pattern marks, pin and baste pocket to jacket front, with the lining side of the pocket facing the front of the jacket. I roll it up and start pinning at one end to make sure I am lining up the marks with the welt stitching, because you want to stitch through all layers on the same stitching lines where you already basted the welts to the jacket front.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00247.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00247.jpg)Stitch pocket to front of jacket. Sorry about blurry pic.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00248.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00248.jpg)Clip through all thicknesses between stitching lines. Clip diagonally all the way to the ends of the stitching. In this pic, the stitching lines that are close to the slit are the only ones that go through the pocket AND the jacket front. The larger rectangle of stitching is just holding the pocket lining to the pocket. As with the pants, if you don't clip all the way to the stitching lines, when you turn it, it will crinkle.

[fuddyduddydude]

Turn the pocket to the inside, and flip welts around so the pretty edges face each other. You will have to pull the welt ends and the little diagonal ends through to the inside. Press everything so the welts lay flat. That is much easier said than done, especially where the jacket front has a seam that intersects the pocket, and where the dart intersects it, but be patient and work with it. Then, at the ends of the pocket, where the welt ends and the little diagonal ends stick out, press those welt ends and the diagonal pieces and the pocket without bothering the jacket front. I've drawn a crude diagram of how you will need to press it to make it work. I just went back and looked at this pic and see that what I've labeled "pocket" is drawn upside down from the way it needs to be. Just look at the close-up pic that follows for a clearer view.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00249.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00249.jpg)

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00252.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00252.jpg) Here's a photo of what that looks like. You will need to press these little pocket details so they can be stitched. Just fold the jacket front out of the way and press very close to the jacket front. The welts should overlap, so keep the top welt where it will lay on top of the bottom welt, so that when the flap is put in later it will lay flat. In this picture, the shoulder, or top end of the jacket is to the right, look at the welt ends carefully and you'll see that the upper one lays on top of the bottom one. Be careful not to press a crease in the jacket front, and when stitching be careful not to stitch through the jacket front.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00250.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00250.jpg)Stitch very carefully. Make two passes if necessary, but stitch very close to the jacket front, but keeping it free.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00253.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00253.jpg)When you turn it and press everything, it will look so nice you'll consider not putting any zigzag stitching at the ends of the pocket opening. But I always do it, because those corners are very fragile, and if the fabric gives or tugs just the slightest, you will wind up with a hole there. So just go ahead and put a little zigzag there. The pocket is still not finished, this is just the opening. Next you make the flaps and stitch them in, then you stitch the pockets themselves. I find it easier to do each step for the left and right side, instead of doing a bunch to the left side and then repeating the whole sequence for the right, that way, when you finish a tough part, you don't have to turn around and do the whole tough part again for the other side. That's where I'll quit tonight. Hope you are enjoying it!

[ItsJustJuwah]

I'm like.... glued to the computer screen, waiting for your next post! It's like the latest reality show, sit-com, action drama for threadheads! ...and we're all sitting on the edge of our seats!

[fuddyduddydude]

I'm like.... glued to the computer screen, waiting for your next post! It's like the latest reality show, sit-com, action drama for threadheads! ...and we're all sitting on the edge of our seats!

Ha ha that's crazy! I would think it's more like being glued to the computer screen watching a tortoise cross the sahara!! "LOOK!!!! He's lifted a leg and he's gonna take a step!!!!"

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00254.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00254.jpg)Okay, let's finish these pockets so we can get down to the business of making the jacket take shape. First, sew the pocket flap pieces together, then trim the seam allowance at corners so it will turn nicely. The pattern calls for the flap to be made from the suit material and the flap lining to be made from the lining material, but I just make both from the suit material, unless I'm lining with material that is very close to the suit color. After stitching the two pieces together, turn them and press.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00255.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00255.jpg)After turning the flap right side out and pressing it, just slide it into the pocket opening, position it, pin it, and stitch in place in the line at the top of the upper welt, being careful not to let stitching wander above the line, and being careful to keep pocket turned up behind it. I measure as I place the flap so that two inches of flap sticks out below the welt.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00256.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00256.jpg)Stitch pocket edges together, keeping suit front free.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00257.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00257.jpg)Press everything gently, and the pocket is finished! Repeat for the other side, of course.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00258.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00258.jpg)Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of upper pocket flap, after trimming interfacing so that it won't extend into seam allowance. ( This keeps it from being too bulky when it's turned. )

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00259.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00259.jpg)Fold it along foldline, stitch ends, trim seam allowance, turn it, press it, and it will look like this.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00260.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00260.jpg)Mark the breast pocket opening on jacket front. Then baste pocket flap in place.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00261.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00261.jpg)After basting the pocket flap in place, pin the pocket to the outside of the jacket front and stitch through the pocket, the flap, and the jacket front. This time, you will turn at each corner of the marks, stitching all the way around the pocket opening. Then cut the slit, cutting diagonally to corners, and turn it to the inside.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00262.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00262.jpg)With pocket turned to inside, press everything, then stitch pocket around edge, keeping jacket front free.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00263.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00263.jpg)This is the way it will look on the outside, before turning and stitching flap in place.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00264.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00264.jpg)Fold flap up, press, and stitch in place. I should mention here that the pattern's lines for the pocket opening don't seem to work for me, as they are waaaaay too close to the edge of the flap when you turn it up. So I stitch the pocket opening about an eighth of an inch inside of the lines on the ends, but right on the top and bottom lines.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00265.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00265.jpg)Left side jacket front, with pockets finished. The right side looks the same, except it doesn't get a breast pocket. Here's a short-cut I take on the pockets: The pattern calls for a tiny little pocket-within-a-pocket on the jacket's side bottom pocket. This calls for several extra steps, and I can tell you from a personal perspective that I hate those little pockets. Car keys get stuck in there, you can't get fingers in 'em to pull change out, it just works like a tiny little funnel that grabs pocket inventory and condenses it into a small spot so your jacket will have a big lump, and then it frustrates you when you reach into your pocket and can't retrieve your business cards, your mints, or your pet armadillo or whatever is jammed in there. So just leave it out. When I'm buying a new suit I hate finding those little pockets.

[ItsJustJuwah]

Don't you hate it when your armadillo gets stuck in those little pockets... it's good you left em out.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00269.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00269.jpg)Iron interfacing to wrong side of each jacket front. Cut opening in interfacing so it goes under pocket ( between pocket and jacket front ) .

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00266.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00266.jpg)Stitch jacket backs together, lining up marks. As the pattern shows, you have to clip one of the jacket extensions ( the little vent thingy at the bottom of the center back of jacket ) -- then press seam allowances flat, folding one jacket extension over the other.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00267.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00267.jpg)This is where you clip one seam allowance so it will press flat.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00268.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00268.jpg)Center back, after pressing seam flat. Pin jacket back to jacket front, with right sides facing, and stitch them together, at each side and at shoulder.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00272.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00272.jpg)At this point, you gotta put it on, even though it's nowhere near finished, just to see your progress.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00270.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00270.jpg)Now it's time to do the under collar. The under collar is felt, and it helps the collar keep its shape. Iron interfacing to under collar.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00273.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00273.jpg)Mark jacket for under collar, mark under collar center line, which lines up with jacket back center seam. Pin the under collar to jacket and baste in place. If you haven't done this before, it's going to seem really crazy, like it doesn't fit, like it's completely wrong. Just remember that these pieces don't lay flat when you're wearing it, it's three-dimensional with lots of compound curves, so be patient and use lots of pins, and stitch slowly. After basting the felt under collar in place, go back and stitch it on the same lines.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00274.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00274.jpg)As I said, just be patient with this piece.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00275.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00275.jpg)After you baste it in place, then stitch it in place, go back and put a zigzag stitch straddling the edge of the under collar to keep it from curling up and ravelling. This edge will be under the finished collar when it's finished, so don't be scared of big stitching. Look at a factory made suit and you'll probably see some big ol' zigzag stitches when you lift the collar up and peek there.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00277.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00277.jpg)Flip the jacket over and put a zigzag stitch along the edge of the suit fabric to keep it laying flat.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00278.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00278.jpg)With right sides together, stitch upper and lower sleeve pieces and press seam flat. Don't stitch the other sleeve seam yet.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00279.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00279.jpg)Iron interfacing to sleeve inside, following marks.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00281.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00281.jpg)This part is kind of neat. Lay sleeve flat, with pretty side up. Fold the bevel side to the top, line up side edge and end edge, and pinch it, pin it, and stitch a seam in the diagonal edge that you created from pinching it.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00282.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00282.jpg)Here's what it looks like, ready to be stitched.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00283.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00283.jpg)Press just the bevel part flat. Don't press up the side edge or the end edge, because you have to turn everything inside out, and pressing it will make more work.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00284.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00284.jpg)Turn bevel right side out, then press everything again, this time pressing side edge and end edge. If you use this method, the sleeve ending will look very nice and finished, but there's no adjusting sleeve length easily after you've put a bevel in it. The first suit I made with this pattern, the sleeves were about an inch too long, so I adjusted the pattern for fit, now I can go ahead and do the beveled edge and hem the sleeves before putting the sleeves on.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00285.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00285.jpg)Now you can stitch the other sleeve seam together. clip seam allowance as the pattern shows, and press seam flat.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00286.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00286.jpg)Adjust hem until everything lays flat and smooth, then pin and hand stitch in place. I dothis on the inside, being careful to only stitch the layers that don't go through to the outside.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00287.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00287.jpg)Here's the sleeve ending, after everything is stitched in place. I actually go ahead and put the buttons on before putting sleeves onto jacket, because if you wait until later, you have to work around the lining. Of course, if you're not sure of sleeve length, don't put buttons on yet. That's all for tonight I think, the next step after buttons will be to put sleeves onto jacket --- and that's a bit tedious.

[ItsJustJuwah]

Good job on the sleeve plackets! It's good that you know what your sleeve length should be ahead of time... most folks think altering the sleeve length on a suit jacket is the holy grail of alterations... if you can do that, they think you can walk on water!

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00288.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00288.jpg)I hand stitch the buttons on the sleeves now, before putting the sleeves on the jacket. -- But if you're not sure of the sleeve length, put the buttons on later.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00289.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00289.jpg)With right sides together, pin sleeve to jacket, lining up all marks. The first time you do this, you will be absolutely sure that there is something terribly wrong with the pattern, like the sleeve is waaaay too big, or that you cut it wrong, or something, because nothing lines up. It's not wrong, it's just really difficult. Just pin it at the marks, then split the difference between marks with the slack. When you stitch it, use long stitches to machine baste it and go slow, easing the excess in so you can avoid big crinkles. Big weaves like tweed are easier here, where finer tighter weaves don't stretch as much, so they are harder. After basting, check for problems. If any spots look bad, rip that area of stitching out and re-do it. I get it as smooth as possible, but I don't sweat it if there are a few tiny crinkles in it. The sleeve head and shoulder pads will help smooth things out, as will some steaming, so just make sure there are no big pleats. If it makes you feel better at this point, I read an article in Esquire a while back that was touting the virtues of these handmade Italian suits that were outrageously expensive, and all the big names in Hollywood were wearing them. The article said you could identify the suits by the crinkles in the shoulder, where the sleeve is stitched in. And I thought "And here I've been struggling to make it perfect!!!"

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00290.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00290.jpg)This little trick makes it easier. After basting the sleeve onto the jacket, and you're comfortable with the alignment of the sleeve to the jacket, turn the sleeve inside out and stuff the whole jacket down inside the sleeve. This will make the shoulder adopt its final shape somewhat, and you can do the finer stitching.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00291.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00291.jpg)Those sleeves are just going to hang there like limp emaciated looking cheap hotel bedsheets without a sleeve head. The pattern says to buy sleeve head, which you can't just run down to the corner store and buy. So on my first suit project, I deconstructed a really nice suit that I wore for years, but it was showing its age. When I ripped the sleeves off, I found that the sleeve head in it was nothing more than a strip of felt. So here is my home-made sleeve head. I cut two felt strips, 1 3/4 inch by thirteen inches long, then mark the center. Taper the ends. Inside the sleeve, where it attaches to the jacket, line up the center mark with the top of the shoulder, and stitch it to the seam allowance, on the sleeve side of the seam.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00292.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00292.jpg)Here's the sleeve head, pinned to the seam allowance. Stitch it in place, close to the existing stitching. Then stitch again 1/8 of an inch away from first line of stitching. Oh, and I should clarify -- you put only one sleeve head in each sleeve. There are two sleeve heads because there are two sleeves. However, if the fabric is heavier or stiffer, and it needs it, you can actually put a second sleeve head in each sleeve.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00294.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00294.jpg)I can't help trying it on every chance I get when I am this far along! Okay, at this point, check for fit. The shoulder pads will help the shoulders to have a crisper shape, and they will actually help shape the sleeve heads. So the shoulder pads will be the next step. Shoulder pads for men's suits are as hard to find as sleeve head, so I'll show how I make my own. But that's all for tonight, hope y'all are enjoying this.

[ItsJustJuwah]

I'm definitely enjoying this! Learning a lot!

[The Angry Hippie]

looks amazing.

[Mr. addison]

Wow you inspire me. I think I may at some point tackle this my self. looks great!

[fuddyduddydude]

Going back over my posts, I always find things I feel the need to clarify. For instance, if you are looking at the pic in the last post and saying to yourself "That lapel sure looks goofy - is it like a smooth jacket with a satin lapel? Is it velvet? Who is this guy, Liberace? Is this a suit or a tuxedo for a Nascar/Monster Truck show wedding?" then I think you may benefit from more information. That is the interfacing, and even though the lapel is kind of taking shape there, it's actually the back side of the lapel. The lapel will really start to take shape later, when the lining is finished. When the lining is installed into the jacket, the lapel is then attached and turned right side out, then it looks right. The lining will also help the sleeves - the whole sleeves, not just at the shoulders - to hang a good bit more smoothly.

I still have lots more to do to this suit, but it's mostly a bit easier from here on out.

[fuddyduddydude]

Well I did the shoulder pads last night. I even made a new shoulder pad pattern so I could show how it's done, and I took pics and everything. But it was so late I didn't want to stay up putting the pics on my computer, so I just planned to upload the pics from work this morning. But I forgot my little cell phone cord at home, so I'll have to put the pics on tonight.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00296.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00296.jpg)Okay, here's how I make my shoulder pad pattern. Lay a piece of poster board or large sheet of paper on the countertop. Place the front jacket pattern piece on top of the posterboard and trace along the upper part of the sleeve opening, the edge at the shoulder, and up towards the neck.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00297.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00297.jpg)Here's what your marking should look like. Then come in at the shoulder edge by the amount of the seam allowance, in this case 5/8", and mark that line. Next, you'll trace around the same area for the back, lining it up with the marks for the front pattern piece. What this does is recreates the dimensions and shape for the shoulder area, so that the shoulder pad is the size of the shoulder area of the coat.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00298.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00298.jpg)Okay, I totally know that I don't have the tape lined up on the end for this picture. The solid lines are the sleeve opening edges and the center line. You don't want the shoulder pad to go all the way to the neck, just most of the way up. Then freehand an arc that will be fatter in the back and narrower in the front, it doesn't have to be exact, and the next pics will help you see the shape.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00301.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00301.jpg)This is the shape you're going for. I mark it R for Right and I flip it over and mark it L for left. The arrow points to the front side of the jacket.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00302.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00302.jpg)http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00303.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00303.jpg)Here's what the pattern piece looks like. Cut four pieces of felt to this shape.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00304.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00304.jpg)Also cut four pieces of felt that mimic the shape of the larger piece, but smaller. This is just the posterboard piece placed where the small felt pieces will be later, to show where they go. These smaller pieces will not extend into the seam allowance at the jacket-to-sleeve seam allowance, and they will be sandwiched between the larger felt pieces.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00305.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00305.jpg)

Here's a pic of the layout. There's a large piece, with two smaller pieces lined up on top, but set in about 5/8 from the edge, then the other larger piece on top. Pin all this together, and run two or three lines of long stitching from front to back, to hold the layers together, then stitch around the curved edge.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00307.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00307.jpg)This is what the finished shoulder pad looks like. Next, line up the center line with the front to back seam line inside the jacket, and pin the edge of the shoulder pad in place, following the edge of the seam allowance in top of the sleeve opening.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00308.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00308.jpg)Here it is pinned in place.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00309.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00309.jpg)Then stitched. I run several lines of stitching through here, because it's kind of a high-stress area.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00313.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00313.jpg)Hand stitch the shoulder pad right in the center of the seam on top of the shoulder, in three or four places. If your marks are good and you lined everything up at the sleeve opening, everything should lay smooth when turned.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00310.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00310.jpg)Turn everything right side out. Check for fit, make adjustments as needed. Making the shoulder pad to extend out to the end of the sleeve's seam allowance helps it to turn out and push the sleeve head upwards, making a nice neat little roll at the sleeve/shoulder seam. Some steam will help everything lay neatly, in a later step.

[fuddyduddydude]

Okay, that's all for tonight.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00314.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00314.jpg)
Fold a pleat in the edges of the front lining piece and stitch in place. then press it flat. Don't stitch all the way across the piece, just at the edges where the stitching will be swallowed up by the seam allowance.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00315.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00315.jpg) Stitch lining pieces together. The dark piece will become the lapel after it's stitched in and turned, but that's a few steps away.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00312.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00312.jpg)Yes I know this is totally irrelevent, but I thought it was a cool pic. I snapped this on the way home yesterday - I was doing 75, the crop duster was probably doing 140 to 150, snapped on my phone.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00316.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00316.jpg)Stitch pocket lining to pocket.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00317.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00317.jpg)With right sides together, pin pocket to lining. Stitch along lines. This is different from the other pockets, in that you actually turn at the corners and stitch all the way around where the pocket opening will be. When done, it will be folded and stitched in a way that welts will form from the pocket material.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00318.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00318.jpg)Cut a slit through all layers, cutting diagonally to corners. Then turn it to the inside.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00319.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00319.jpg)On the inside, lay the pocket out flat, and press these folds into the pocket, at opening. These folds will form a welt at the opening.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00321.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00321.jpg)On inside, stitch across those folds to hold welt in place.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00320.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00320.jpg)Turn piece pretty side up, but keeping pocket halves splayed outward underneath. Stitch just outside of welt line, to keep welt from deforming, then put a zigzag at ends of pocket openings.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00322.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00322.jpg)On back side, pin and stitch around the pocket edge, keeping jacket fabric free.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00323.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00323.jpg) Press everything gently. Pocket is finished, now repeat for the other side. Having a pocket that transitions from the satiny lining fabric into the wool suit fabric really makes it look good on the inside.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00324.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00324.jpg)Stitch lining side onto lining. Next will come the back, then the sleeves, then the upper collar, then the lining will be inserted into the jacket, and the lapel will be turned. After that is buttons, buttonholes, hemming and finishing touches.

I hope some of you are finding this thread interesting. Every time I make a suit I find myself thinking how much goes into it, but this is the first time I've documented the steps. Taking the pics and posting them, along with comments makes me realize that it's a whole lotta work!!

This suit is nearing completion, and my 100% wool suit fabric (that I paid thirty one bucks for five yards for! ) came in today. So when I finish this suit, I'll get a few other projects done then start on that one. I will NOT however, be posting a step-by-step tute on it, I'll just post the occasional "lookit this!" and pics of the finished project.

[fuddyduddydude]

So I was checking, and it seems this extremely loooong, tedious, step-by-step suit thread doesn't get a lot of response.... Maybe because it's so looooong and tedious, maybe because it's about suit making... and I was thinking, "How can I make this thread more interesting?"

So I thought I'd post a pic of some other suits I just finished making.... :rolleyes:


http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_georgebrad.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=georgebrad.jpg)


KIDDING!!!

[Sewing Joe]

Hope it doesn't sound too mean, but I'm kind of glad the participation is kind of sparse. Imagine what a great resource this will be in the future, and not having to wade through a lot of comments will be quicker.

I'm thrilled to be following along with your progress. You are quite talented!

[fuddyduddydude]

Thanks Joe! It's really getting closer and closer to being finished. One of my co-workers sews, and she can make a dress in one evening, so she's like "It takes you HOW LONG to make a suit???!!" But yea, there's a lot that goes into it, so I hope documenting it makes it a little easier for someone else. When I started doing this, about a year and a half or so ago, I was completely lost on some parts of the instructions. Some of the simple line drawings looked like abstract minimilist art to me, I just didn't see what was supposed to happen.

[Miss_Gagarin]

boy i would have definitelay thought that the veston part would have been harder that the pants. So you're soon be don?

[PieLord]

So I was checking, and it seems this extremely loooong, tedious, step-by-step suit thread doesn't get a lot of response....
Tedious, NOT!
I'm with Sewing Joe, don't want to disrupt the flow.
There you are, going for gold in the 10,000 metres, last thing anybody wants is some idiot (me) rushing onto the track and shaking you by the hand.
See what you done now! I delurked and registered to the site specially to cheer you on, keep going fella.
I've been snooping around all the usual suspects, AskAndy, London Lounge, Tom Mahon, Des Merrion, Martin Stall, Miss Celie and goodness knows who all else, just forever, trying to pick up tips, and boom! there it is! Your thread.
I suspect you are a very intelligent man, being able to condense and clarify the process like that, it's the best explanation I've seen. Now I'll be forced to tackle all those bolts of stuff I've got mouldering away, no more "it's too complicated!" whiny excuses for me!

Not that being smart is a crime, didn't mean to sound like that, it's just not something I have too much to do with:D

[fuddyduddydude]

Thanks guys! I have been busy with some other stuff, so I had to stop sewing for a day or so. But I've been at it this afternoon, and I've got some pics to add, so here goes. First, call me a glutton for punishment, but this suit fabric has a faint red strip between the light gray or white stripes, so I decided to add this single line of decorative stitching where the front facing attaches to the lining on the inside. This is one of those things that nobody will see except me, but it will look nice.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00326.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00326.jpg)

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00329.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00329.jpg)Iron in fusible interfacing to the front facing. I trim the interfacing so it will not be in the seam allowance, and I trim it away from the lining pockets.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00330.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00330.jpg)Okay, for the sake of my sanity, I've left out a few steps from the pictures. You assemble the lining just like you assemble the jacket, putting together the sides, the back and the sleeves. Fortunately, you don't have to be oh so careful with the sleeves, easing in the slack, just let it gather, because this is going inside the jacket and it won't show. Is it silly to put it on and see if it fits? Maybe, but the first time I made a suit, trying on the lining is how I found out that I had the sleeves on the wrong sides!! Better to find any problems now than later. I really start getting stoked at this point because it's getting closer to being finished!!

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00332.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00332.jpg)Iron interfacing to the collar.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00333.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00333.jpg)Mark stitching line on collar.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00334.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00334.jpg)Fold and stitch. This will be folded to make a bevel, like the bevel on the sleeve.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00337.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00337.jpg)Fold and press to make collar. This will be stitched onto the lining, then the lining attached to the jacket.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00340.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00340.jpg)Attach collar to lining. When jacket lining is attached to the jacket, the collar will line up with the felt under collar somewhat crudely, and will be hand stitched in place later.

Pin the lining to the outside of the jacket, then stitch the jacket facing ( the suit material part that is attached to the lining already ) to the jacket, lining up the marks. Notice in this pic, the jacket is right side out, the lining is right side out ( it's confusing, but it really is right side out, remember that with the lining, the pretty part is INSIDE ) and the lining is on the OUTSIDE of the jacket. Also remember that this pic is taken in a mirror. So the part I'm holding open is the LEFT side, where the breast pocket is - you can see the inside of the jacket there. This is how you get the lapel to turn and not have any stitching showing. It will look like this:
http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00341.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00341.jpg)
Since everything has to be turned right side out, and the seam allowance will be inside the edge of the lapel, I like to trim one of the seam allowances to about a quarter inch, so that there won't be two five-eights seam allowances on top of each other. This makes the lapel lay a little flatter at the edge.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00342.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00342.jpg)Press the lapel and front of the jacket gently, all along the front edge. The collar will lay on top of the felt under-collar, and it will have to be stitched in place by hand.

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00343.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00343.jpg)
Pin the collar to the under-collar. Then stitch it by hand close to the edge, being careful to stitch only through the felt and the folded edge of the collar, not going all the way through the collar, or there will be little divots where you stitch.

[fuddyduddydude]

That's all for tonight. Tomorrow, maybe I can get the collar stitched in, then it's just the finishing touches.

[fuddyduddydude]

Tedious, NOT!
I'm with Sewing Joe, don't want to disrupt the flow.
There you are, going for gold in the 10,000 metres, last thing anybody wants is some idiot (me) rushing onto the track and shaking you by the hand.
See what you done now! I delurked and registered to the site specially to cheer you on, keep going fella.
I've been snooping around all the usual suspects, AskAndy, London Lounge, Tom Mahon, Des Merrion, Martin Stall, Miss Celie and goodness knows who all else, just forever, trying to pick up tips, and boom! there it is! Your thread.
I suspect you are a very intelligent man, being able to condense and clarify the process like that, it's the best explanation I've seen. Now I'll be forced to tackle all those bolts of stuff I've got mouldering away, no more "it's too complicated!" whiny excuses for me!

Not that being smart is a crime, didn't mean to sound like that, it's just not something I have too much to do with:D

You mean someone has been reading this thread??? :eek:

Thanks for reading, I hope my instructions are clear enough. A suit is labor intensive, and anyone who makes one will no doubt run into some snags, um I mean "learning experiences" along the way.

[ladyjanewriter]

Keep at it, man!

I really love the lining you chose. That's super-sharp.

I swear someday I will understand this whole thread. Right now my brain just doesn't do tailoring that well.

[keithhenkel]

Yea you definately have an engaged audience; I just read 17 pages of posts...

I've just flat-patterned a men's vest with a lapel for myself. I know they don't usually come that way, but I'm thinking of using a faux fur for the collar and lapel. It'll be my first men's piece, but then I read all of this, and I'm inspired to try out some of things I've read here. I -have- to include a welt pocket now!

[fuddyduddydude]

Keep at it, man!

I really love the lining you chose. That's super-sharp.

I swear someday I will understand this whole thread. Right now my brain just doesn't do tailoring that well.

When I started this thread, I really was thinking of the person who was sitting there scratching his or her head, trying to decipher the pattern and instructions. ( That was me a while back ) So I've tried to take pictures mostly of the confusing parts. That said, my hope is that this thread will serve as a supplement to the printed instructions, or as inspiration to anyone who was reluctant to tackle a tricky looking sewing task. This is the only suit pattern I have ever used, and I've already bought an extra couple of patterns, in case they ever discontinue it. It's cut like a basic, classic business suit, so it should stand the test of time. I don't know if the same process is followed with other patterns, or if things are in a different order, but the procedures should be roughly the same.

Most of what I lack at this point is done by hand, except for the buttonholes and the hem. It doesn't really look "good" until you've pressed everything smooth. I'll go ahead and mention it now, and probably mention it again later - DON'T PRESS A CREASE DOWN THE LAPEL WHERE IT TURNS. It should "roll" from the inside to the outside. If a crease is pressed there, it will look sharp in a mirror and awful when you move around and walk and sit, etc. You can steam it and encourage it to roll more tightly, but don't press it. A good dry cleaner will not press the lapel. A bad dry cleaner will press it and ruin it. I recommend "reconnaisance" missions into men's clothing stores to look at nice suits on the rack. The only pressed lapels there will be three button and four button jackets that have a high top button. This holds the lapel tight anyway, so a pressed lapel doesn't look so bad there. But on a classic two button business suit, don't press the lapel crease.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00349.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00349.jpg)Okay, here's the lapel after hand-stitching the collar to the felt under-collar. See how the lapel point lines up with the stitching where the collar meets the lapel? That is one of the things you check as you go, and if it doesn't line up, you rip the stitching out and re-do it. This will look better after a little steaming, but don't spend too much time on it at this point, because the jacket will spend a good bit of time yet on the sewing table. You can tell in this picture that my cat is white. He doesn't bother my sewing area too much ( while I'm looking ) but his hair gets everywhere.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00346.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00346.jpg)Okay, here's a little trick. Put the jacket on, and reach your right hand up inside the jacket on the left side, like you're going to scratch your left shoulder. Find the place where the lining wants to line up with the upper sleeve-to-jacket seam, and pinch it there. Slip the left sleeve off of your arm and pin it. Don't be surprised if the lining seam isn't exactly where the jacket seam is. Just pin it and hand stitch the lining to the seam allowance in one small spot. ( This is the seam allowance that has all the felt in it, remember? ) There's no need to stitch all around the shoulder seam, just a spot at the top and at the bottom.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00347.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00347.jpg)Turn the sleeve inside out, letting lining turn inside out with it. Pin lining to the edge of the sleeve fabric that has been turned up in a previous step, and hand stitch it in place. This will let the lining form sort of a self-pleat when it is worn. I like to line up the sleeve lining seam with the jacket seam that is on the top of the sleeve ( the seam that loosely lines up with the thumb ) and I stitch from there around to the other side, and when I reach the seam on the other side, I terminate the stitching and go back to the first seam and go 'round the other way, that way if there's a little slack in the lining ( there always is ) I let it stay on the side of the sleeve where the buttons are.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00348.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00348.jpg)Try it on and make sure everything hangs okay. At this point, putting it on between major steps is critical to make sure nothing needs changing before it's too late. Also, when you put it on and snug up the fold of the collar and the lapel, you begin to introduce a "memory" into the fabric in those areas, so it starts to hang more and more like a finished garment.

Okay, I'm slow about hand-stitching, so even though I got a lot done this evening, it doesn't necessarily look like it. Next will be blind-stitching the hem, then more hand-stitching, at the lining hem. After that, buttons and button holes.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00351.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00351.jpg)Mark and stitch the buttonholes. Then put the jacket on and mark the other side for the buttons, then hand-stitch the buttons in place. I leave a long piece of thread hanging after doing a buttonhole, then run it through with a needle and tie everything off on the back side, because if you just do a buttonhole and snip the threads close, it may unravel later.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00353.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00353.jpg)I turn up the hem and press it, then pin it and blindstitch it. My machine's longest blindstitch is only about a half inch between the stitch that grabs all thicknesses of fabric, and in my opinion this makes the blindstitching more visible. So what I do is pin it thoroughly, then when I'm blindstitching it, I let it grab all thicknesses for one stitch, then I ease over and let it only grab the layer that won't show for a couple of hits, then ease back over, so that I'm essentially skipping a couple of stitches between the ones that grab all layers. This makes it less noticeable on the outside of the jacket when it's done.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00354.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00354.jpg)After you're happy with the hem, and it's all pressed and straight looking, run a line of edgestitching at the hem of the lining, to keep it from ravelling, then hand stitch the lining to the turned-up edge of the jacket hem. This will wind up giving the lining some slack. I don't have a serger to pretty up the edges, so I just stitch it close, then hand-stitch that lining hem and allow the slack to fold over and hide the hand stitching. After you've done the lining hem on both sides, you'll lay the jacket flat, with the lining up, and press a crease in the slack at the bottom. That little extra lining fabric down there makes it look sharp and finished. In the pic here, I've only stitched the lining in one side, so I haven't pressed it yet.

On my first jacket, I didn't know how to do blindstitching, so I actually used that press on adhesive stuff. MISTAKE -- it wound up looking like I had spilled glue in the pockets, and I couldn't fix it.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00356.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00356.jpg)
Let the excess lining material fold at the bottom and press it lightly. This fold will hide the stitching at the bottom, and the excess material will move with you without pulling on the outer jacket material. For the vent in the rear, I stitch the lining to the inner layer of fabric only, down to about three inches from the bottom, so that the pressed fold of lining fabric will work for that area too.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00355.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00355.jpg)Lay the jacket flat, with lining and front of jacket up. Fold the collar over the way it will be when you are wearing it, then pin inside the jacket where the collar meets the lining. Unfold collar and stitch along this line with a long zigzag stitch, staying inside the jacket so that stitching won't show on turned lapel. You want to make sure you aren't pulling the collar towards the inside or pushing it too far up. Be sure where you stitch that it won't show on the back of the jacket - the line where the lining meets the collar is a good line because it will be hidden on the outside by the collar. This line of stitching serves the purpose of holding the lining in place while you are wearing it. Without it, you will sit down and the lining will try to pull down and turn the collar up, or you will slouch and the collar will grow taller and wrinkle. So pin with just enough "give" to allow the collar to turn, but not so much that it is loose.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00357.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00357.jpg)Put on the jacket, stand in front of a mirror, and get the collar and lapel turned just like you want it. This is where you'll determine the width of the collar, so take your time and get it like you want it. When you've got it laying like you want it, take a tailor's chalk and make little marks at the lapel's roll line, from the neck all the way to the button or buttonhole.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00358.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00358.jpg)This is the way that mark looks when you lay it out flat. I put the jacket onto the pointy end of my ironing board, with the narrow point up inside the shoulder, and lay the front of the jacket on top of the ironing board, folding at lapel line. DON'T PRESS A CREASE IN IT!!! Just steam it and encourage it to roll along that line. If you press a crease in it, it will not act right when you are wearing it.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00359.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00359.jpg)Check it over for loose threads, sticky roll cat hair off it, re-press any questionable areas.... and IT'S FINISHED!!!!!

No really, that's it!! It's done!! ( Okay I admit I snapped this pic before getting the cat hair off it, but you get the idea )

I hope you have enjoyed following along, and I'm sorry it was so slow going, but I have to do this in my "spare time", which is a little scarce. I appreciate the kind words of those who have been keeping up, and I will try to post a good "Finished product" picture of it tomorrow, with a nice shirt and tie.

[Sewing Joe]

Remarkable! Thank you so much for sharing this project. I'm bowled over.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00378.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00378.jpg)Okay, here's the finished suit, modeled by yours truly, carrying Darcy, one of my two chihuahuas. We also have a big dog and a cat. I wasn't dancing around in this picture, as it looks, I just had one foot up on a step. You can't tell from the picture, but I'm also wearing my cufflinks that I made from typewriter keys -- I got that idea from threadbanger a while back.

[fuddyduddydude]

http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00380.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00380.jpg)And another...
http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00381.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00381.jpg)
And another...




http://http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/th_DSC00368.jpg (http://s621.photobucket.com/albums/tt298/fuddyduddydude/?action=view&current=DSC00368.jpg)
And one more with no doggie.

[Miss_Gagarin]

can't believe I missed it! amazing work. On the pics, I can't tell it's home made.

[PieLord]

That is ... that is ... glorious!

Please don't say it's an April Fool, and what you actually did was get a Wm. Fioravanti and reverse-engineer it with a seam ripper, and then post the pics backwards??

Just kidding man, that truly is a work of substance.

I'm off to get a beer (and a pie), you just made me feel like a lazy slob!! And you did it in such a "nervous" cloth too. Luckily I hang out in a country in which near enough quarter-inch thick tweeds are barely adequate protection, and that stuff hides a multitude of stitchy crimes, so I better get started.

Thank you so much for showing us that it is indeed possible for mere mortals to "have a go", in fact you're my "Have-a-Go-Hero" so far this year :^)

[fuddyduddydude]

That is ... that is ... glorious!

Please don't say it's an April Fool, and what you actually did was get a Wm. Fioravanti and reverse-engineer it with a seam ripper, and then post the pics backwards??

Just kidding man, that truly is a work of substance.

I'm off to get a beer (and a pie), you just made me feel like a lazy slob!! And you did it in such a "nervous" cloth too. Luckily I hang out in a country in which near enough quarter-inch thick tweeds are barely adequate protection, and that stuff hides a multitude of stitchy crimes, so I better get started.

Thank you so much for showing us that it is indeed possible for mere mortals to "have a go", in fact you're my "Have-a-Go-Hero" so far this year :^)

You really made me laugh with that one! I can't say I've heard of "nervous" cloth before, but I so understand what you mean! I was watching a Sherlock Holmes movie with my wife and daughters, and here was Mr. Holmes in a thick, clunky tweed jacket that had these rough-hewn pocket flaps and blocky lapels, with big quilted stitching --- and we all said how cool it looked --- but how out-of-place it would look to wear here in the U.S. in 2009. I still kinda think I want to do one like that though, and I'll enjoy wearing it even if nobody else likes it.

Meanwhile, "have a go" at it. If you're like me, and I know I am, you'll make a mess out of one or two, but that's okay. If you need pointers, contact me here and I'll at least try to help.

[xxBoneOrchardxx]

thats awesome, im actually working on the same pattern for my boyfriend's birthday hope mine comes out as awesome thanks for sharing!

[fuddyduddydude]

Hey that's awesome! I hope some of the pics or descriptions help. The folks at Vogue patterns are really nice, and they've got a feedback section on their website. When I started my first suit project, I was like "What's sleevehead?" I actually asked the lady at Wal-Mart's fabric department, and she looked at me like I had an extra eye or something. So I asked the folks at Vogue patterns, and they answered me really quickly, even suggesting some places that sold it.

I just finished re-doing some kitchen counter tops, now I've got a couple smaller projects to do, then I'll start the next suit.

[mcore_yo]

truly inspirational.

[fuddyduddydude]

Hey Everybody -- I've got an update! If you have a Hancock's fabric or a good bookstore, go check out the August-September issue of Vogue Patterns magazine, they put me in it! I mentioned Threadbanger in it too. Now I've got to run out and buy up all the issues I can find for all both of my friends....